Samarkand, Uzbekistan

 

Samarkand

Visiting Uzbekistan has been my dream since many years, and with simplified visa process and travel ease the dream came true last month. An amalgamation of architectural splendor and rich cultural history, Uzbekistan is definitely one of the most beautiful countries in Central Asia.

Over the centuries, many powerful kingdoms like-Persian, Arab, Turkish, Mongolian, and Soviet have flourished and declined in this region, each imparting its own diverse influence on the art, architecture, and culture of Uzbekistan. The influence of different civilizations have shaped the culture of Uzbekistan and thereby creating an incredible mosaic. 

We visited Samarkand and Bukhara in this trip and one word to define these cities would be mesmerizing. They are some of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. It used to be one of the most vital knowledge exchange centers in the world, the stopover for important literati’s, religious figures, traders and travelers in general, and therefore it is dotted by many Madrasas- the Islamic school system.

Day-1 Samarkand- Registan Square, Handweaving Silk Carpet workshop, Paper making Workshop.

We started our journey in Samarkand and stayed there for 2 days. On our first day we visited the amazing Registan Ensemble, Handweaving Silk Carpet workshop and Paper making Workshop.

Since we went in off season in the month of August, it was hot there. But as we have stayed in hot countries, we did not have much issue with the climate. Though the days were hot, the evenings were quite pleasant. Coming back to Registan Ensemble, it is easy to reach the place and the best option to commute there was Yandex Taxi, it was affordable and convenient.

And if you are an architecture lover like me you are going to simply adore this beautiful Registan Ensemble so much that I did not want to leave it, even after it got closed. We got very little time there, as it got closed early because they were preparing for International Music Festival.

Popularly known as Registan Square, it is called it is the epitome of beauty.  “Registan” in Uzbek means 'sandy place' and in ancient times this square was trade center for artisans and farmers and hence the name Registan. Much later these beautiful Madrasas were built. It houses three exemplary structures- Ulug Beg Madrasa, Tillya-Kari Madrasa and Sher-Dor Madrasa.

The Registan Square

It was late afternoon when we arrived the Registan Square, and I must say it’s easy to get lost in its grandeur. So, we opted for the guide, and she took us to all the three Madrasas and guided us with its information.

1. Ulug Beg Madrasa- Built by the grandson of Timur- Ulug Beg, this is oldest of the three Madrassas at the Registan Square. It was built between 1417 to 20 and since Ulugh Beg was an astronomer and mathematician, both these interests are reflected in the mosaic tile work with depictions of the sky and stars on the entrance arch. The glazed bricks create beautiful ornaments on the yellowish laying of the walls. It is said that it was the largest scientific-educational establishment in Samarkand. It has two stories where students used to come and seek knowledge. Here students were taught philosophy, astronomy, mathematics, theology. Today it houses museum.

 The Ulug Beg Madarsa

 2.  Tila Lori Madrasa- This Madrasa is in the center of the square and was built by Yalangtush Bakhodur in the 17th century. The name translates to “decorated with gold”, for the gold details on the facade. Though the Tilla Kori is referred to as a Madrasa, it houses a Mosque and Madrassa both. The Madrasa gets its name from ‘Tilla Kari or gold-cover or gilt work’ in the mosque portion of the monument. The intricately decorated interiors of the Mosque were meant to symbolize Samarkand’s affluence. The Mosque displays a magnificent optical illusion as the ceiling is flat but designed and painted in such a way that it appears as a dome.

The three dimensional golden painted ceiling and beautiful Muqarnas/ honey comb design to depict the direction of Mecca in Mosque

The exterior view of the Tila Lori Madrasa, the sky blue tomb is of the Tila Lori Moque

   3. Sher Dor Madrasa- This is the third Madrasa of this square and named after the two big golden tigers carrying a sun on their backs and heading after white fallow-deer were adoring the entrance. Sher means tiger (lion) and the name is translated as “adorned with tigers”. It was this plot that later became a national symbol of Uzbekistan. Today it houses many shops of souvenir, silk scarves and other handicrafts.

The Sher Dor Madrasa, you can see the two golden tigers painted on it

The detailing and color of the mosaic work of all the three Madrasas are so dazzling that it is easy to spend several hours just wandering around this amazing square.

Then we visited the Handweaving Silk Carpet workshop where we got a glimpse into the traditional art of carpet production. Samarkand is a key city on the Silk Road and thus has a long history of silk weaving and textile artisanry. Most weavers in the workshop are women, which is symbolic. 

Woman weaving the carpet 

In the showroom, hundreds of finished rugs and carpets are on display. It’s wonderful to watch the saleswoman unfurl a shimmering roll of finely woven silk, then turn it around to show off the “two-tone” quality much admired in top quality weaves.

Please do not fear that you may be pressured into a purchase. That is not their way the people are in general very hospitable and amazing.

Then we went to the traditional paper making workshop, which my daughters really love. It is a bit far from the city in the suburbs of Samarkand. But an operating paper workshop, where craftsmen revive year old paper technique.

We saw stages of paper production using the same technologies and raw materials as hundreds of years ago. Those who wish can even take part in the papermaking process.

Women shredding the wood, the first step of papermaking

The best thing to do in night there was to visit Registan Square again by night. This Registan is lighted beautifully and though we could not go inside in the evening because they were preparing for the international music concert that was about to take place there, we admired the place from outside.

Night view of Registan

We ended the day with the dinner at Al Ikram restaurant known for its mouth-watering kebab, although language can be a barrier as they could not understand English. However, the kebabs are worth trying.

Day- 2- Siyob Bazar, Bibi Khanam Mosque, Shahi Zinda and

Bibi Khanam Mosque & Siyob Bazar

We started our next day with the visit Bibi Khanam Mosque, and we crossed the Siyob market. This bazaar is the original remnant of the Silk Road. Inside the covered bazaar, we just strolled out and checked out what was for sale. It had abundance of - fresh fruits, dried fruits, nuts, vegetables, gift baskets, clothes, and flowers. But since we were short of time, we rushed to Bibi Khanam Mosque.

The mosque, which could accommodate 10,000 worshippers and is named after Timur’s  wife. The entrance of the Mosque is super grand. There seems to have difference in opinion of who ordered to build this Mosque. Some say that Timur ordered the construction of this Mosque after his successful campaign in India in 1398, as a symbol to depict his power. Other accounts have it that as Timur devastated Northern India, Bibi Khanam ordered the construction of the mosque to surprise the conqueror on his return to Samarkand.

The Courtyard of Bibi Khanam Mosque

But one thing is common in all the views and that is it is one of the the best architectural beauty of Samarkand. It is also said that labor was brought over from Persia and the best artisans labored to build the mosque. Additionally, nearly 100 elephants were imported from Indian to haul the wagons laden for the marble used in the construction of the mosque. It was a period when the official distinctive style was developed in the architecture of Central Asia. Amir Temur famously said: “If you doubt our greatness, take a look at our buildings.”

The tomb of Mosque 

Though a large part of the Mosque is in ruins today, the grandeur of its bygone time can be well imagined. I wish the Mosque was functional so that we could offer our Friday prayer there but as our guide informed us, in the era of the Soviet Union, Russians prevented worshippers from using the mosque to suppress religion and used the mosque as a stable and cotton market.

Neither of the two mosques was open so all we could do was walk around the courtyard and take in the views. Much later, a huge marble pedestal for the Quran, was built by Ulugbek, Timur’s grandson.

Shahi Zinda

Then we walked to Shahi Zinda- a complex of mausoleums. Shah-i-Zinda means Living king.

Just after the entry after taking few steps towards the left there was a Women Prayer ‘s room, so first, I offered my Friday prayer there. Then after climbing further stairs there was Shahi Zinda. As I approached the top of the steps, I got a glimpse of what was to come. I could already see the stunning tile work. Adjoining both sides were the mausoleums- separated by just a few feet- it was an incredible sight to behold.

The mesmerizing Shahi Zinda tiles work

It is easy to get lost in these shades of blue and no matter how many photos I clicked I still feel that I cannot capture enough of its beauty. Each and every nook and corner of this mausoleum is adorned in shades of blue tiles.

The beautiful embellished exterior 

Kusum Ibn Al-Abbas Ibn Abd al-Muttalib, a cousin of Prophet Mohammad (PBUH), brought Islam to Uzbekistan during the seventh century. He preached Islam there and Shahi Zinda houses his tomb. And hence lot of tombs are there as the vicinity is considered pious. The Timurids then continued to build their royal tombs surrounding the scared site during the 14^th and 15^th centuries. 

Outside the tomb of Kusum Ibn Al-Abbas Ibn Abd al-Muttalib

There is a unifying theme of the turquoise, marine and azure blue on the mausoleums’ entry. The adornments of each mausoleum are notably distinct, as they were built in different times and adorned by different architects. The intricate, varied patterns of tiles cover the walls like an exquisite quilt.

 Gur-e-Amir

We ended our day with the visit to - Gur-e-Amir. The name "Gur-e Amir" translates to "Tomb of the King" in Persian as it houses the tombs of Timur, two of his sons and two of his grandsons. It welcomes its visitor with a beautiful turquoise- blue entrance with muqarnas/honey comb.

The beauty of blue tiles and muqarna at the entrance

It is remarkably similar to the Monuments of India built during Mughal rule. I have always been fond of these muqarnas- the architectural element that features small, tiered niches arranged in a honeycomb-like pattern. These intricate structures often adorn the transition zones between architectural elements, such as the dome and the supporting walls. And when the light falls on Muqarnas it creates a sense of awe and wonder within a space. The play of light and shadow further emphasizes the importance of light in Islamic architecture (just like jalis) symbolizing divine guidance and knowledge.

Close up Muqarna

The courtyard of Gur-e-Amir

On either side, tall minarets decorated in blue, glazed brick provide the perfect balance. The aesthetics symmetry, cylindrical dome and tall minarets are said to be the inspiration for later architecture in Agra and Delhi. It also has courtyard and further inside there are separate rooms for tombs. And at the back of the Mausoleum few steps down there is a beautiful souvenir shop filled with hand paintings and beautiful artifacts.  

The ceiling of the mausoleum of Temur

Surrounding the mausoleum are the ruins of walls that once held a Khanaka (hall with meeting rooms) and a Madrasa. It looks even more beautiful when lights come out in night.

The night view of Gur-e-Amir

So after spending tiering yet amazing day we headed to eat in restaurant which according to me is the best restaurant of Samarkand. The name of the restaurant is very easy to remember as it is called “Samarkand”. The food is delicious there and the décor is also worth visiting.

The interior of the Smarkand Restaurant , inside this there are three dining halls 

Though there were more places to see in Samarkand like Ulug Beg Observatory, Museums etc, we could not go there because we headed to Bukhara next day.

And in the end I would like to conclude with what Alexender the great said when he conquered Samarkand - ‘Everything I have heard about Samarkand is true, except that it is much more beautiful than I imagined’. 

SOME IMPORTANT FACTS

• The people in general are very helping and cordial, always ready to help.

• Uzbekistan has removed its visa requirements for over seventy nationalities now. Citizens of UAE, Europe, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and many more can travel in Uzbekistan for 30 days without a visa.

• Best time to visit are April to June & September -October. Although we visited there in August

• The best and most enjoyable way to travel around Uzbekistan is by train as they’re comfortable and very reasonably priced. The Afrosiyob trains are best and I would advice to go and take the tickets directly from the station.

• Smarkand had very well developed roadways so commuting within the city is very convenient. For commuting with the city Yandex Taxi is best, reasonable and easily available. You can simply download the app.

• Don’t forget to take travel adapter for charging your phone (Type C and F plugs)

• Western toilets are available everywhere but if you are used to of jitter like me then I would advice you to carry portable sprayer.