Samarkand, Uzbekistan

 

Samarkand

Visiting Uzbekistan has been my dream since many years, and with simplified visa process and travel ease the dream came true last month. An amalgamation of architectural splendor and rich cultural history, Uzbekistan is definitely one of the most beautiful countries in Central Asia.

Over the centuries, many powerful kingdoms like-Persian, Arab, Turkish, Mongolian, and Soviet have flourished and declined in this region, each imparting its own diverse influence on the art, architecture, and culture of Uzbekistan. The influence of different civilizations have shaped the culture of Uzbekistan and thereby creating an incredible mosaic. 

We visited Samarkand and Bukhara in this trip and one word to define these cities would be mesmerizing. They are some of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. It used to be one of the most vital knowledge exchange centers in the world, the stopover for important literati’s, religious figures, traders and travelers in general, and therefore it is dotted by many Madrasas- the Islamic school system.

Day-1 Samarkand- Registan Square, Handweaving Silk Carpet workshop, Paper making Workshop.

We started our journey in Samarkand and stayed there for 2 days. On our first day we visited the amazing Registan Ensemble, Handweaving Silk Carpet workshop and Paper making Workshop.

Since we went in off season in the month of August, it was hot there. But as we have stayed in hot countries, we did not have much issue with the climate. Though the days were hot, the evenings were quite pleasant. Coming back to Registan Ensemble, it is easy to reach the place and the best option to commute there was Yandex Taxi, it was affordable and convenient.

And if you are an architecture lover like me you are going to simply adore this beautiful Registan Ensemble so much that I did not want to leave it, even after it got closed. We got very little time there, as it got closed early because they were preparing for International Music Festival.

Popularly known as Registan Square, it is called it is the epitome of beauty.  “Registan” in Uzbek means 'sandy place' and in ancient times this square was trade center for artisans and farmers and hence the name Registan. Much later these beautiful Madrasas were built. It houses three exemplary structures- Ulug Beg Madrasa, Tillya-Kari Madrasa and Sher-Dor Madrasa.

The Registan Square

It was late afternoon when we arrived the Registan Square, and I must say it’s easy to get lost in its grandeur. So, we opted for the guide, and she took us to all the three Madrasas and guided us with its information.

1. Ulug Beg Madrasa- Built by the grandson of Timur- Ulug Beg, this is oldest of the three Madrassas at the Registan Square. It was built between 1417 to 20 and since Ulugh Beg was an astronomer and mathematician, both these interests are reflected in the mosaic tile work with depictions of the sky and stars on the entrance arch. The glazed bricks create beautiful ornaments on the yellowish laying of the walls. It is said that it was the largest scientific-educational establishment in Samarkand. It has two stories where students used to come and seek knowledge. Here students were taught philosophy, astronomy, mathematics, theology. Today it houses museum.

 The Ulug Beg Madarsa

 2.  Tila Lori Madrasa- This Madrasa is in the center of the square and was built by Yalangtush Bakhodur in the 17th century. The name translates to “decorated with gold”, for the gold details on the facade. Though the Tilla Kori is referred to as a Madrasa, it houses a Mosque and Madrassa both. The Madrasa gets its name from ‘Tilla Kari or gold-cover or gilt work’ in the mosque portion of the monument. The intricately decorated interiors of the Mosque were meant to symbolize Samarkand’s affluence. The Mosque displays a magnificent optical illusion as the ceiling is flat but designed and painted in such a way that it appears as a dome.

The three dimensional golden painted ceiling and beautiful Muqarnas/ honey comb design to depict the direction of Mecca in Mosque

The exterior view of the Tila Lori Madrasa, the sky blue tomb is of the Tila Lori Moque

   3. Sher Dor Madrasa- This is the third Madrasa of this square and named after the two big golden tigers carrying a sun on their backs and heading after white fallow-deer were adoring the entrance. Sher means tiger (lion) and the name is translated as “adorned with tigers”. It was this plot that later became a national symbol of Uzbekistan. Today it houses many shops of souvenir, silk scarves and other handicrafts.

The Sher Dor Madrasa, you can see the two golden tigers painted on it

The detailing and color of the mosaic work of all the three Madrasas are so dazzling that it is easy to spend several hours just wandering around this amazing square.

Then we visited the Handweaving Silk Carpet workshop where we got a glimpse into the traditional art of carpet production. Samarkand is a key city on the Silk Road and thus has a long history of silk weaving and textile artisanry. Most weavers in the workshop are women, which is symbolic. 

Woman weaving the carpet 

In the showroom, hundreds of finished rugs and carpets are on display. It’s wonderful to watch the saleswoman unfurl a shimmering roll of finely woven silk, then turn it around to show off the “two-tone” quality much admired in top quality weaves.

Please do not fear that you may be pressured into a purchase. That is not their way the people are in general very hospitable and amazing.

Then we went to the traditional paper making workshop, which my daughters really love. It is a bit far from the city in the suburbs of Samarkand. But an operating paper workshop, where craftsmen revive year old paper technique.

We saw stages of paper production using the same technologies and raw materials as hundreds of years ago. Those who wish can even take part in the papermaking process.

Women shredding the wood, the first step of papermaking

The best thing to do in night there was to visit Registan Square again by night. This Registan is lighted beautifully and though we could not go inside in the evening because they were preparing for the international music concert that was about to take place there, we admired the place from outside.

Night view of Registan

We ended the day with the dinner at Al Ikram restaurant known for its mouth-watering kebab, although language can be a barrier as they could not understand English. However, the kebabs are worth trying.

Day- 2- Siyob Bazar, Bibi Khanam Mosque, Shahi Zinda and

Bibi Khanam Mosque & Siyob Bazar

We started our next day with the visit Bibi Khanam Mosque, and we crossed the Siyob market. This bazaar is the original remnant of the Silk Road. Inside the covered bazaar, we just strolled out and checked out what was for sale. It had abundance of - fresh fruits, dried fruits, nuts, vegetables, gift baskets, clothes, and flowers. But since we were short of time, we rushed to Bibi Khanam Mosque.

The mosque, which could accommodate 10,000 worshippers and is named after Timur’s  wife. The entrance of the Mosque is super grand. There seems to have difference in opinion of who ordered to build this Mosque. Some say that Timur ordered the construction of this Mosque after his successful campaign in India in 1398, as a symbol to depict his power. Other accounts have it that as Timur devastated Northern India, Bibi Khanam ordered the construction of the mosque to surprise the conqueror on his return to Samarkand.

The Courtyard of Bibi Khanam Mosque

But one thing is common in all the views and that is it is one of the the best architectural beauty of Samarkand. It is also said that labor was brought over from Persia and the best artisans labored to build the mosque. Additionally, nearly 100 elephants were imported from Indian to haul the wagons laden for the marble used in the construction of the mosque. It was a period when the official distinctive style was developed in the architecture of Central Asia. Amir Temur famously said: “If you doubt our greatness, take a look at our buildings.”

The tomb of Mosque 

Though a large part of the Mosque is in ruins today, the grandeur of its bygone time can be well imagined. I wish the Mosque was functional so that we could offer our Friday prayer there but as our guide informed us, in the era of the Soviet Union, Russians prevented worshippers from using the mosque to suppress religion and used the mosque as a stable and cotton market.

Neither of the two mosques was open so all we could do was walk around the courtyard and take in the views. Much later, a huge marble pedestal for the Quran, was built by Ulugbek, Timur’s grandson.

Shahi Zinda

Then we walked to Shahi Zinda- a complex of mausoleums. Shah-i-Zinda means Living king.

Just after the entry after taking few steps towards the left there was a Women Prayer ‘s room, so first, I offered my Friday prayer there. Then after climbing further stairs there was Shahi Zinda. As I approached the top of the steps, I got a glimpse of what was to come. I could already see the stunning tile work. Adjoining both sides were the mausoleums- separated by just a few feet- it was an incredible sight to behold.

The mesmerizing Shahi Zinda tiles work

It is easy to get lost in these shades of blue and no matter how many photos I clicked I still feel that I cannot capture enough of its beauty. Each and every nook and corner of this mausoleum is adorned in shades of blue tiles.

The beautiful embellished exterior 

Kusum Ibn Al-Abbas Ibn Abd al-Muttalib, a cousin of Prophet Mohammad (PBUH), brought Islam to Uzbekistan during the seventh century. He preached Islam there and Shahi Zinda houses his tomb. And hence lot of tombs are there as the vicinity is considered pious. The Timurids then continued to build their royal tombs surrounding the scared site during the 14^th and 15^th centuries. 

Outside the tomb of Kusum Ibn Al-Abbas Ibn Abd al-Muttalib

There is a unifying theme of the turquoise, marine and azure blue on the mausoleums’ entry. The adornments of each mausoleum are notably distinct, as they were built in different times and adorned by different architects. The intricate, varied patterns of tiles cover the walls like an exquisite quilt.

 Gur-e-Amir

We ended our day with the visit to - Gur-e-Amir. The name "Gur-e Amir" translates to "Tomb of the King" in Persian as it houses the tombs of Timur, two of his sons and two of his grandsons. It welcomes its visitor with a beautiful turquoise- blue entrance with muqarnas/honey comb.

The beauty of blue tiles and muqarna at the entrance

It is remarkably similar to the Monuments of India built during Mughal rule. I have always been fond of these muqarnas- the architectural element that features small, tiered niches arranged in a honeycomb-like pattern. These intricate structures often adorn the transition zones between architectural elements, such as the dome and the supporting walls. And when the light falls on Muqarnas it creates a sense of awe and wonder within a space. The play of light and shadow further emphasizes the importance of light in Islamic architecture (just like jalis) symbolizing divine guidance and knowledge.

Close up Muqarna

The courtyard of Gur-e-Amir

On either side, tall minarets decorated in blue, glazed brick provide the perfect balance. The aesthetics symmetry, cylindrical dome and tall minarets are said to be the inspiration for later architecture in Agra and Delhi. It also has courtyard and further inside there are separate rooms for tombs. And at the back of the Mausoleum few steps down there is a beautiful souvenir shop filled with hand paintings and beautiful artifacts.  

The ceiling of the mausoleum of Temur

Surrounding the mausoleum are the ruins of walls that once held a Khanaka (hall with meeting rooms) and a Madrasa. It looks even more beautiful when lights come out in night.

The night view of Gur-e-Amir

So after spending tiering yet amazing day we headed to eat in restaurant which according to me is the best restaurant of Samarkand. The name of the restaurant is very easy to remember as it is called “Samarkand”. The food is delicious there and the décor is also worth visiting.

The interior of the Smarkand Restaurant , inside this there are three dining halls 

Though there were more places to see in Samarkand like Ulug Beg Observatory, Museums etc, we could not go there because we headed to Bukhara next day.

And in the end I would like to conclude with what Alexender the great said when he conquered Samarkand - ‘Everything I have heard about Samarkand is true, except that it is much more beautiful than I imagined’. 

SOME IMPORTANT FACTS

• The people in general are very helping and cordial, always ready to help.

• Uzbekistan has removed its visa requirements for over seventy nationalities now. Citizens of UAE, Europe, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and many more can travel in Uzbekistan for 30 days without a visa.

• Best time to visit are April to June & September -October. Although we visited there in August

• The best and most enjoyable way to travel around Uzbekistan is by train as they’re comfortable and very reasonably priced. The Afrosiyob trains are best and I would advice to go and take the tickets directly from the station.

• Smarkand had very well developed roadways so commuting within the city is very convenient. For commuting with the city Yandex Taxi is best, reasonable and easily available. You can simply download the app.

• Don’t forget to take travel adapter for charging your phone (Type C and F plugs)

• Western toilets are available everywhere but if you are used to of jitter like me then I would advice you to carry portable sprayer.

Dehradun and Mussourie

Dehradun  

This was my second trip to Dehradun and Mussourie. And though most of my trips are not planned, this trip was extremely unplanned. If I have to rate my unplanned trips, I would rate this trip on the top. It was decided an hour before, we booked the ticket in a private bus as it was the only option left at last hour and then headed to Dehradun. Delhi was boiling hot at that time and Dehradun was definitely cooler. Lying in the foothills of Himalyas, Dehradun is a great escape from Delhi, especially in summers.

The main agenda of this trip was to beat the heat and have good time with friends. The plan was to have no plan. So, we stayed at my dear friend’s place in Doon University. Morning was spent lazing around in her peaceful home, hailing from a small city, I felt as if I am at home. I sat in balcony and sipped my tea. I enjoyed greenery of forest, sound of bird’s chirping and felt cool, refreshing and relaxing breeze. After enjoying the lazy morning and a small nap, we headed to the Robert Cave. Popularly known as Guchhipani or Guchu Pani, it is one of the well-known places of Dehradun.

Located in the outskirts of the city, Guchu Pani is a must visit place to beat the heat. We parked our car and walked a kilometre inside to reach the actual sight. Basically, it is a water stream flowing amidst the hills. We held each other’s hand and got into the water. Though the water was hardly till our knee it was very cold. This was the first time I was trekking in water flowing through rock. Somewhere water was deep and somewhere it was shallow. It was a walk through the water and hence simply refreshing.  After the tiresome walk we ate Maggie and tea and relaxed our cold feet.

 Mussourie

First Visit

Like most colonial hill stations, Mussoorie has its Mall Road and that was our first destination. We walked all the way to the end, enjoying the scenery censored with buildings, electric posts and hotels. It was very misty that day and it made the place look even more beautiful. It was a beautiful weather and we enjoyed it to the fullest.  This was my first visit to any hill station of North and I went complete crazy for the place.

And then we moved to a ride to rope way to Gun Hill to further enjoy the view from top. The Ropeway distance is only 400 metres, but still it was fun. Gun Hill offers a beautiful panoramic view of the Himalayan ranges namely Bunderpunch, Srikantha, Pithwara and Gangotri group etc. and a bird's eye view of Mussoorie town and Doon Valley. It is said that it is named Gun Hill because during pre-independence time, a gun mounted on this top used to be fired indicating mid-day to enable people to adjust their watches. There is a small market on the hill with small food outlets there. We relaxed, enjoyed the view and ate maggie and tea there.

After enjoying the Gun Hill we returned to the Mall Road in Mussoorie to shop for some local handicrafts and artefacts. The Mall Road has number of shops and showrooms offering everything from gift items to clothes, hand-made gifts and antiques.

This was my visit in 2007, and I wanted to stay there forever but unfortunately had to come back. But when I left the place I promised that I will visit this place again.

Second visit

I visited the queen of hills again in 2014, with a group of friends. Though this time I did not go to Mall Road and Rope way, we definitely enjoyed our trip. This time we went directly to Kempty Falls. We went to upper part of the falls where there were fewer tourists.  In fact when we went there, the fall was empty. Though the fall was not very huge it was good enough to enjoy. The first time I put my feet in the water I realised it was chilling like ice, but gradually I went in the fall. It was more of a group adventure. We trekked nearer to the water fall with each other’s help and managed to do photo session also. Though it was the month of May, the water was freezing cold, but then also we enjoyed our session there.  After the fun-filled session at the waterfall we felt too tiered and headed to the local food outlet and had lunch. Since it was Sunday, the hill station was swamped with visitors and could not go to any other place and headed directly to Dehradun.

SOME FACTS

• The name of this hill station is taken from the word ‘Mansoor’ which is a shrub available in abundance here. And this is why even today many people call it Mansoori instead of Mussourie.
• The 100 years old church which is the oldest in Himalyas the Christ Church, is in Mussourie. It is said that in the churchyard there is a deodar tree planted by Mary, Princess of Wales.
• The first Tibetan school was established in Mussoorie in 1960.
• Place Lal Tibba is the highest point in Mussoorie with an enormous height of 2,290 metres (7,510 ft).
• Do not forget to enjoy the maggie and tea of the local outlet
• Do not forget to visit the Tibetan market which has some good collection of winter wears
• And if you are fond of getting clicked, then adorn the traditional dress of mountains and get clicked by the photographer just beside the church.

HOW TO REACH DEHRADUN

By Air: The nearest airport is Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun, approximately 54 kilometres from Mussourie.

By Train: Multiple trains run from all major cities. 

By Road: It is well-connected with all the major cities. From Delhi it will take you 8 to 9 hours to reach Dehradun.

Mussourie is just 30 minutes drive from Dehradun

With good road connectivity, you can travel by private car also-

• Delhi- 8 hours (247 kilometres)
• Jaipur- 12 hours (526 kilometres)
• Agra- 10 hours (432 kilometres)
• Chandigarh- 4 hours (180 kilometres)

The Fatehpur Sikri

The Fatehpur Sikri

The Fatehpur Sikri was established by great mughal emperor Akbar in 16^th century. It was a tribute to renowned sufi saint, Sheikh Salim Chishti. It is said that Akbar walked barefooted from Agra to Fatehpur Sikri seeking the heir for the Mughal Empire and Salim Chisti predicted a male heir. And the prediction of the saint came true and Akbar was blessed with a son. Akbar named his son 'Salim' after the Sufi saint.

It is located at 40 kilometres from Agra. The credit of visiting the city goes to my father who was very keen on visiting the city. And though I was not much interested in visiting this city after the exhausting Agra trip a day before, I loved the city. We headed to Fatehpur Sikri Fort complex which is dotted by several architectural marvels soon after our breakfast.

Though our guide gave a lot of information but only few seemed true. The first place we saw was Diwan-e-aam, the hall of public audience that was used for public meetings and celebrations; its construction is very much similar to Diwan-e-aam of Red Fort of Delhi. Then we headed to Diwan-e-khas, the hall that was used for private meetings, there is a beautifully carved pillar in the centre of this hall. One very interesting thing in front of the Diwan-e-khas, is a life-size board for a game of Pacchisi (a precursor to Ludo), where human figures were used as the pieces and were moved by the direction of its players. What royalty and grandness the Mughals lived their life in.

Then we headed to the three small structures. Our guide said that since Emperor Akbar had three favourite wives, one of whom was Hindu, one Muslim and one Christian, he built one palace in name of each of his wives. Though I have never read this version of story in any of the Mughal books I have read.

Panch Mahal, whose photo is shown in the tourist book’s pages is a five storeyed building a place for recreation and relaxation for the royal family. The structure has been so designed that each story is pillared and is smaller than the other as you move upwards. Though now it is not allowed to climb up this structure. While no less than 84 columns support the ground floor, the uppermost domed floor has only 4 columns. The whole structure is only pillared without any enclosed wall and hence very airy. It is said that it was styled to give relief from the scorching summers of Agra and never used for residential purpose.

The Turkish Sultana’s House is one of the most ornamented buildings of this complex. Each and Every inch of this building is beautifully carved and designed. Though there is not much story about who Turkish Sultana was, but our guide said she was one of the wives of Akbar. It is a small structure surrounded by a verandah, but designed very intricately.

Just adjacent to the Turkish Sultana’s House is Anup Talao. This is actually a pool with a raised platform built by red sandstone and surrounded by stone jalis in its centre. There are four paths from four directions that connect this raised platform to the sides of the pool. Our guide has one more story to say about this pool, don’t know how much it is true. But according to our guide- this pool was once filled with coins and ornaments during the Mughal Era and when the rays of sun falls on this pool it created a visual treat. Today, despite being a part of world heritage the water in the pool is dirty and no one can enter the raised platform in the centre of the pool.

Then there is Jama Masjid and Sheikh Salim Chisti’s Tomb. The Jama Masjid is a beautiful and grand masjid. There are two entrances for this masjid, one is from Buland Darwaza, through which we entered and other one is through The King’s Gate (Badshahi Darwaja). It is said that Bulund Darwaza is said be raised in 1602 AD to celebrate Akbar’s victory over Gujarat. We entered through Buland Darwaza. 

The Sheikh Salim Chisti’s Tomb is one of the most revered Sufi shrines of India. People from all religions come here to seek blessings and it is believed that their wished will be granted. And though all the other structure of this complex is made of red stone, the tomb is made of white marble. It is enclosed by beautiful marble jalis where people tie thread and ask for the blessings of the Sufi saint. This tomb is very serene and beautiful.

Fatehpur Sikri remained the capital of Mughal Empire during the era of Akbar for 14 years. But then due to the acute water shortage in the region, it was abandoned by Mughals. 

The Taj Mahal & Agra Fort

Agra

Amidst the hustle and bustle of the busy city, lies one of the most visited and photographed monument of the world. Yes, I am talking about none other than the Taj Mahal. The symbol of love, Taj Mahal is located in the historical city of Agra that lies just 200 km from Delhi. And though I have visited there twice, I will visit the city again (and then I will post better pics). I always knew Agra was a centre of power during the time of Mughal rule, after reading a book recently on Mughals I realized a lot of politics and power revolved around Agra and hence this post.

The 197 km Delhi- Agra expressway is a smooth and easiest way to reach Agra from Delhi. In 2 hours we reached Agra and that too was a comfortable and pleasurable drive with two halts in between. Though most of the times I prefer a journey from train, this expressway is recommendable for a road journey.

Our first destination in Agra was Agra Fort. Personally I felt the magnificent Agra fort is quite underrated. I loved the fort more than Delhi’s Red fort. This architectural beauty was built by Akbar between 1565 and 1574, who chose Agra as his capital. Built of red-sandstone fort, on the bank of the Yamuna River it is spread in 2.5 kilometers. This fort houses number structures and masjids. There is a city within a city in this fort. Diwan-Khas, Diwae-e-Aam, Moti Masjid, Nagina Masjid, Sheesha Mahal are some names that I remember. Most of them are made of red sandstone or marble, and has beautiful carvings on it. If you are fond of Mughal architecture like me then you are going to love this fort. There is serenity, calmness and most importantly the royalty in this fort, which makes it worth visiting.

Though there are versions of stories told by guide there, only few sounded real. So, I would suggest all the visitors not to trust the guides there. The only real story told by our guide was of Musamman Burj and Khas Mahal, the magnificent white-marble octagonal tower and palace where Shah Jahan was imprisoned for eight years until his death in 1666, and from where he could gaze out at the Taj Mahal, the tomb of his wife. When he died, Shah Jahan’s body was taken from here by boat to the Taj. The now closed Mina Masjid, set back slightly from the eastern edge, was his private mosque. This version of story is believable as I have read this in two of the books on Mughals.

The fort is huge and it will take half of your day if you want to visit this fort properly. Moreover, you have to be rough and tough to visit this fort as it requires too much f walking. I was quite tired after the visit, hence it took a break had lunch and then headed to The Taj Mahal.

The Taj Mahal is just 15 minutes from the Agra Fort. Do not get surprised by the entrance of the The Taj Mahal as you have to cross sloppy roads, lack of traffic management system and hoards of shops before entering this beautiful mausoleum.  But as soon as you will enter here you are bound to be lost in its beauty.

Built by Emperor Shah Jahan in the loving memory of his wife, Arjumand Bano better known Mumtaj Mahal, this is an epitome of love. It is said that it took over 20,000 skilled workers from across the country, working day and night, for 22 years for this architectural wonder to be created. Though with the passage of time and pollution the whiteness of the marble is reduced, still is a perfect example of grace, symmetry and beauty.

As I get nearer to the tomb my appreciation deepened; from a closer vantage point, the fact that the entire building is made out of white marble becomes more and more apparent and the way it’s intricately designed is simply spectacular.

The most interesting fact that our guide told us is about the four minarets. These four minarets are perfectly symmetrical to each other and they are constructed slightly outside the platform so that in case of natural calamity like earthquake the minarets will fall away from the tomb and there by leaving the main complex unaffected. Such was the farsightedness of the constructor.  

The walls of the tomb are beautifully carved with calligraphy and inlaid design of flowers.  I just sat at the e back side of the Taj Mahal where river Yamuna flows, and let the cool breeze refresh me from the day’s tiredness.  By this time the sun was already setting the whole ambience just let me forget that I was tiered. The whole feeling was simply rejuvenating.

To the west of the Taj Mahal is a Masjid built by Isa Muhammed and plays an important part in the overall design. It is made from red sandstone and very serene. The design of the floor of the mosque is in the shape of prayer mats. And to create a symmetrical effect, a guest house, which is of similar proportions and appearance to the mosque, was built to the east of the Taj Mahal tomb. The main difference in the guest house and Masjid is the interior of the Masjid that has Mihrab and Minbar. The Mihrab is a niche which indicates the direction of Mecca and the direction in which Muslims face to perform their prayers or salah. Circling the Mihrab are calligraphic inscriptions taken from Sura 91, The Sun, from the holy book of the Qur'an. Sitting by the Masjid near the Yamuna makes marveling the Taj a jaw-dropping experience.

Though I wanted to stay there longer, just wanted to relax and enjoy the cool breeze, the visiting time was getting over. So, with heavy heart and a determination that I will come here again I left the tomb.

Just to sum up the whole experience, there are few words of caution while visiting Agra.

• Be ready of the dirt and shoddy roads
• Beware of pickpockets
• The roadside sellers are very pushy and it is quite difficult to shake them off.
• Remember to always bargain and slash the price as low as possible, because the prices quoted have been inflated many times
• Do not give your valuables to guide